Hi there this is Dana. In this video, I’m gonna be showing you how to do two really lovely embroidery stitches I’m gonna be teaching you the stem stitch and the split stitch First up, I’m gonna say, I just got a new really fancy tripod, so I’m trying shooting this from above, so if something looks a little out of whack or whatnot please do let me know. But I’m hoping that this will actually allow you to see the detail and stuff easier and I might not keep smacking into my camera so there you go. So first up, I’m doing this up, it’s gonna be a freebie pattern available in the Peacock Lounge, so if you’re not already a member you can just go to the video description and it will have a link that you can sign up and get access to all the freebie patterns that I have, both for embroidery and for cross stitch. So what I’ve done, sorry occasionally, I might actually knock the camera, it’s actually really close to me. What I’ve done is this, is just the calligraphy is the freebie pattern for this. But this is one that I actually made for my mum because her middle name is Joy. This is using Ballina linen from Zweigart. It’s really really pretty. It’s just a really nice sort of oatmeal color and it’s really nice and lightweight. So that’s that, that’s what I use for this one here, and also for this one I’m gonna be using Normandie linen. So the last time when I did the woven wheel stitch demonstration, I used what was called Kingston linen. These are all from Zweigart, it is a German company. The Kingston linen is this, it’s a really nice lightweight linen and then the Normandie is it’s a bit heavier and denser. It’s actually really really nice, so I’m looking forward to experimenting with this one. But what I did with this one is you can see, you’ll see once you see on the, once you see the actual pattern it’s actually calligraphic letters. So it’s wider in areas so you can see here I actually stitched it with a couple of rows of the same stitch to make it give that kind of swoopy calligraphic look to it, but what you can do too is with this one you can see I’m just drawing one line. So I’m just going to do a really thin line for the demonstration and what I would recommend is if you do want to do just one thinner line and not do the thicker lines is I would choose when you’re drawing it out on your pattern, I would choose either the inside of the lines or the outside and just be consistent when you’re tracing your design. I traced this up against the window with this Frixion pen here, and this will actually disappear with heat. If you’re not sure how to transfer your design to your fabric I’ll put a link in the description to the video that explains these pens and explains lots of different ways to transfer your design to your fabric. So there’s that, so the first one up is going to be a stem stitch, and obviously a stem stitch is named that because it’s really good for stems and florals and sort of nice swooping lines like calligraphy and things like that. So I’m gonna be doing it in this really pretty green, I’m just gonna knot my thread. This is 703 from DMC, but obviously you can use any color that you like. So what I’m gonna be doing, so I’m actually gonna start here and work my way around. So stem stitch, there’s a couple of different ways that you can form this, the way I’m going to teach you today is sort of the easier version of the two. There’s one where you form your stitches sort of actually on a diagonal sort of purposely, but for me personally, that’s kind of tricky because you have to remember which angle you’re going at and sometimes you can get a little off. Whereas this method I’m going to show you, this is actually a sort of foolproof so the angle is always going to follow the way it should. So I’m using three strands here as well. So what I’m gonna do is go down, so you’re gonna choose your stitch length if it’s a tighter curve you’re going to want to tighten up your stitch make it a little bit shorter, so what you’re gonna do, so it’s gonna create a little bit of a loop like that obviously, before you pull it all the way through sorry It’s twisting a bit, so there’s that so you’ve got your coming out and going back in, what you’re gonna do is right in between those two stitches is you’re gonna come up again. So you’re gonna hold this down keep it out of the way, whoops it just sucked up a bit of the tail, and then you’re gonna pull. You don’t have to pull super tight obviously, you don’t want it to just start buckling your fabric. So there’s that and then you’re gonna do it again. So this here is your stitch length, so you’re gonna go here and then half again. Down and again, you’re holding your floss down so it doesn’t get all the way up and then you’re gonna come back up in the exact same hole pretty much. And again release. So that’s pretty much all there is to stem stitches, and you can see it’s starting to look like a bit of a rope. I’ll keep going, so the more strands you use of this the thicker it’s going to look and the more textured it’s going to look. But also if you’re using a ton of strands when you have these really tight little areas like in here that might end up being a little bit trickier. So one thing that I’d to do as well is if I’ve got a lot of swirling lines is I try to keep this loop facing on the outside of that curve, so if the curve is coming in towards me I try to keep the loop coming towards me, it just makes the this stitch flow a little bit easier. You’ll see what I mean like once you start playing with this. You can flip it around so then you put this on the up and then stitch, but it’s gonna sort of change the direction of your twist. It looks like a twist in your rope so you can do it, it’s just going to give a different effect. So I would choose whichever direction seems to be easier for you. Some people prefer it down some prefer it up, but I prefer just sort of trying to orient either myself or the fabric in a way that the curves are coming towards me and that tends to make it a little bit easier and makes this stitch, the line flow a little bit nicer. So as you can see you just keep rotating around, you can also do this where you do the sewing method, it’s a little bit trickier when it’s hooped, like that. So that’s pretty much all there is to the stem stitch. Like I said when you are coming around tight curves you’re gonna really want to shorten up. I’m just gonna stab it, it’s a little bit tricky with the hoop in the way of my fingers. When you’re doing tight curves you are gonna have to really shorten that stitch up. It just helps it bend around the curve easier and doesn’t give you some … so instead of like there, which is where I would normally go, I’m actually gonna go here and start making those stitches shorter to get around the curve. And once I get around the curve then I will explain how you would do the thicker sections like I did in the little one for my mum. So you can see again I’m doing really short stitches, again a short stitch, come on turkey. So like I said, I have seen some people where they like put their stitch down on this side and then come up on that side of the line I find then your angle tends to get a little wobbly, especially if you’re adjusting your stitch length. So I find using your guideline directly is easiest, and if you are transferring your design to your fabric and obviously not permanent because otherwise you’d have to stitch over the whole line, and it does have the full width of the line printed. Then and you’re wanting to just make one thin line then like I said just choose one edge of that and follow along and make sure your stitches are landin,g directly along that edge. Otherwise you’re if you’re sort of going and trying to go in the middle of a wider line your stem switch might end up looking a little wobbly. Whereas using these lines as a reference, is preferable. Alright so now, it’s getting a little bit less curved, so I’m going to start increasing my stitch length again in just a moment. I’m sorry if this, I’m still learning where the camera actually sees, so if occasionally this goes out of out of screen shot lease trust that I am going to adjust this once I realize, because I can’t actually look through the camera as I’m filming this because it’s actually kind of hovering over my shoulder on a tripod. All right, so I just went up here, then I’ll explain how you would stitch the longer or the wider sections if you wanted to, so let’s say let’s say that let’s say this section here was wider, which it actually is, sorry camera, which it actually is in the original design, it starts getting wider here. And then it’s, and then as of here it gets one strand again and then it gets wider, and same along here. In case you’re wondering this is three strands of the blue, and then I mixed in one strand of, two strands of blue one strand of green, and then two strands of green and one strand of blue. So that’s how it kind of gave, that kind of variegated effect. It’s actually not variegatd thread, I was blending my threads. So this is stem stitch, stem stitch, and then this is a split stitch which I will show you shortly. So this little pattern here, like the actual pattern is just the lettering, but these stitches, like in the last video I did I taught how to do the woven wheel roses. This is stem stitch here. These are detached daisy chains, which I will teach I think in the next video. And then just French knots, and then this is a leaf stitch which I will also teach in an upcoming video. So yeah, you can, once you have a basic pattern down then you can just kind of wing it in and play which is what I did with this one. I just kind of played with color. So like I said if your stitches, if your lettering is getting wider like say here, it’s getting wider and coming down here ,what I would do is go up to where the widest part is. So I would continue along this path and I would go up to here and you can choose whether you’re gonna follow along the inside of the line of the outside of the line, it depends on you, so you do one row up and then you would come back and do a second row just to where that line is just starting to thicken out. So I did maybe four stitches in here, and what you’re gonna want to do too is keep your stitch going the same way. In which what I mean by that is you’re gonna want, so if your floss is hanging towards you doing all these stitches, when you come back the other way you’re gonna want to keep your floss still facing towards you, otherwise if you turn this way to travel back up, then it’s going to look like your rope is twisted the opposite direction, which you know you can do if you really want to. But just if you want to keep the twists, I say twist it’s not actually twisting but it looks like it’s twisted, going the same direction, then I would keep your fabric actually facing the same direction. So I would travel up here and then I would travel again down like four or five stitches down to where it started to [thin]. And then I would skip up a little bit to where it started to thicken again. Just underneath the stitches you’ll be able to see your markings, and then go up again and then continue on with the one. So you can have a little experiment with that, there’s lots of different ways to to fill in areas. I mean
These are actually quite beautiful stitches to use for filling in areas because you can see it creates a really really pretty texture, I really like it. So what I’m gonna do is I’m going to turn the camera off and I’m going to keep going with this, and then for the O I’m gonna show you how to do a split stitch, which is Yeah, split stitch, which I’m gonna show you how to do that for the O. And then you’ll have the two stitches that you can experiment with, and at the very end I’ll show you this one completed. Alright, so I’m gonna turn the camera off and I’ll be back in a moment. Alright so here we go, I’m just about finished. So what I’m gonna show you here is how to finish off this line so when I went around this bend here I had to really shorten my stitches, but that’s okay. That’s what you’re supposed to do. So here you can see I’ve just about finished so what I’m gonna do is just drop my needle down into the same Last hole and that will finish that off nicely, so that’s that’s the J done in Stem stitch. So what we’re gonna do now is I’m going to show you how to do split stitch, and this is actually really cool. This kind of looks braided almost, depending on how many strands you use. Obviously I would recommend using more strands, you can’t do split stitch with one strand of floss. I mean you can but you’d have to be ridiculously accurate to try and split one strand of floss, so the more strands you use it’s especially when you’re first starting it’s gonna be easier. And if your floss starts to get twisted like this just drop it and let it let it hang, and that will help untwist it. Because when you’re stitching, you’re naturally actually twist your needle like a quarter turn each time you stitch, that’s why your floss gets twisted. So with the stems or sorry, the split stitch, it’s almost like a cross between backstitch which is in one of the other videos and the stem stitch. I’ll show you what I mean, so you’re gonna make your little stitch again, vary the length depending on how curved it as you can see in this section here of the J that I actually stretched out the stitches quite a bit, just gives a nice sort of texture and flow of the stitches sort of changing in length, it can be quite pretty to look at. So that’s when you’re gonna go down, drop down like normal, but what you’re gonna ao is you’re actually gonna try and pierce the center of that stitch and then come up and then prop down again the same stitch length. So it’s almost exactly the same as a stem stitch except instead of coming up beside the middle of the stitch you just made, you’re coming up right through the center of it. So it gives it almost this really cool braided effect. So again you’re gonna come up, so ideally you’re wanting to come up roughly where your first stitch ended so that way your your stitches are gonna be roughly the same length, but it doesn’t really matter. So what I have seen, so this does take a little bit of accuracy just because you have to try and split it in the middle, but you can see that it’s starting to look braided. I have seen people do this in a reverse way, so I’m just gonna show you what I mean. So instead of coming up from underneath, they’ll basically do a back stitch and then drop down into the center like that so that’s easier. I mean, it’s more accurate obviously because you can see where you’re splitting it, the only problem with that is when you pierce your fabric, like the direction of your needle, like all the little little tiny fibers and stuff there on your floss when you pierce your fibers with your needle, what’s happening is the shaft of the needle is actually pushing all those fibers in the direction that the needle is traveling. So if you’re gonna do it this way what’s going to happen is all those little fibers around the edges, you know even if you can’t really see them unless you get super close, they’re all gonna get pushed that direction and what that’s actually going to create is it can create the impression of a hole right there. So instead of this nice flowing line of braid it’s going to look like this little string of holes. So it is easier to do it this way, but because you’re pushing those little fibers down that way, it’s actually going to create the impression that you’ve created a hole, so that’s why I recommend doing it this way, even though it is does take a little bit more practice and it just takes a little bit more time as you have to be a little bit more accurate. And again, going around curves, shorten your stitch right up. For something like this where the O is like almost peaked and then comes around you can totally change like the exact location of that line. Like this is your project, so if you want to make the O wider or narrow or whatever, go for it. Ror something like this and same here like you know I had to narrow, had to widen that out just a little bit to travel that quite tight curve is totally okay to sort of flatten, you know in your mind flatten that curve out to make it easier for you to travel along. So again, we’re just gonna pierce and drop it down, so I’m just gonna travel out just a little bit to make that curve a little bit easier. So this is a really pretty stitch, this is often used same as stem stitch for outlining, it can be used for things like if you’re doing satin stitch which I will I think, yeah I’m definitely gonna be doing a mini tutorial of satin stitch, sometimes you can use the split stitch as an outline for your satin stitch and then your satin stitches go over top of that so it gives it kind of a raised effect, and it helps you with your accuracy of your satin stitch. All right one more here, you can see it takes a little bit of patience, but it’s all good. Alright, so what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna turn the camera off now, and I’m gonna keep traveling around and do the finish up the split stitch you can see that and then I’m gonna continue on with the Y and do that back in the stem stitch and I’ll come back to you and show you the finished project in just a moment. Okay as you can see I’ve finished here, so we’ve got the stem stitch for the J and you can seek is a really lovely 3D effect, like you can almost see like the line like the lines going over each other and swirling and swooping, and then we’ve got the split stitch here for the O. I’m just gonna finish off my thread, so an easy way is just to wind it under the last few stitches a couple of times and then just trim it. So I’m going one direction and go back the other direction once or twice and then that’s just golden. You can also catch this loop as well, that gives a little extra anchor, a little tug, and snip. Here you go tada. So yeah, if you do want this pattern just go to the little pop-up that’s going to come up on the right hand side of your screen right now and sign up for the Peacock Lounge if you’re not already a member. The patterns are totally free and yeah, if you have any questions, please feel free to let me know and also if you like this video please like it, it really does help with other people being able to find these videos that might help them as well. And I hope you have a fantastic day, bye for now!